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Within 30 minutes of my arrival, India began ticking all the boxes - near road-kill in the taxi from the airport (no mirrors but a very loud horn), cows wondering along the pavements, an elephant, two monkeys, 5 people looking very relaxed on one scooter and ladies dressed in amazing saris with flowers in their hair, making me feel like a proper grub.
I arrive in Pondicherry and meet an Italian lady who is helping to run the project. She has been here for a while so is able to fill me in on the town and on Kalki. The guesthouse I am staying in is bright and breezy with a beautiful roof terrace, in an area which is clean and (relatively by Indian standards) quiet (except for the 'call to prayer' loud speaker which is situated about 5 feet from my window and makes for an alternative alarm clock).
Next day I am shown around the center. Kalki takes in children who are living on the streets (i.e they don't even have the limited security of a slum) and offers them a safe place to play and learn in the day and a night shelter located out of town if it is not safe for them to back to the streets at night. There is a creche, all the way up to vocational training (in hospitality or tailoring) for the older girls. They also offer a mobile library which takes toys and books to children who are unable to come to the centre.
I am greeted with about 20 under 5's, screaming gleefully and tottering all over the place. A little boy shows me a rose petal in his hand, runs over to the alphabet poster and asks to be picked up. I oblige and he immediately points out 'R' for roses.
I am introduced to the teachers, cook and the ladies in the office. Everyone is lovely and very welcoming.