Kemi Samples Africa

It’s just emotions

Even though I’m now into day 5 in Malawi I realise that I haven’t really said much about how I actually FELT on that first night.  I’m aware that some of you reading this blog might be about to embark on a similar trip or are maybe thinking about it so I should really let you know…….Well – I was in a slight state of distress if I am totally honest!  The combination of having not slept at all for 36 hours and just the total culture shock that you really can’t prepare for – doesn’t matter how much you read in advance.  Landing in Lilongwe was fine – it was the morning, sun was shining and Lilongwe is the capital city so you feel a sense of comfort in those surroundings. Arriving in Neno later that evening was a different mix of emotions.  I was so glad that we finally arrived after the long drive and everyone I met was really friendly.  When I got to the guest house and saw the room where I would be staying (at that point for at least 2 of the 8 weeks) my heart sank slightly and the panic set in!  (“What did you expect?!” I hear you cry). Well – it’s not really about expectations I don’t think – because actually the room I was staying in was fine, I had a large comfortable bed, a mosquito net, a fan, a shower and toilet – the only things that made it feel really basic was the materials and exposed concrete rather than say – paint, tiling or wall paper that I would be more used to, it was also very small.  It’s the little things. On top of that my network coverage had disappeared making me feel even more isolated! 

Anyway – I put my things in my room and went to join the others in the guest house for dinner – no time to sit there and cry! On that night the light bulb in the dining room was broken so we ate in the dark – first proper Malawian meal and I couldn’t even see what I was eating properly – it just gets better.  I was joined by an increasing number of people over dinner as word spread that a new person was in town – majority being guys, and although everyone was friendly asking lots of questions – when you haven’t slept for 36 hours and keep checking if the no signal sign on your phone has gone – it was quite draining! After an hour or so I went my room ready to sleep and thank God my phone signal came back!!!  Even that one bar of signal made me feel 10 times better before I’d even called anyone!  (At this point I was thinking I’m really not cut out for this experience!) So I called a loved one and cried like a baby for about 10 minutes trying to explain why I was so distressed – I actually didn’t know why – all I kept saying through the tears was “I don’t know anyone and there are too many people”.  LOL so lame.  I can laugh now. But after that phone call I felt so much better – I cannot tell you difference, just to speak to someone familiar and let them calm you down, I think that can be really important for night one (if you’re a newbie traveller like me anyway, and a cry baby like me).  It was for that reason that I didn’t call my parents or brother/sister (they still don’t know about this by the way) because I knew I would make them panic even more than I was which would not be helpful to anyone.  I also knew my brother would laugh at me – even less helpful. 

In addition – my emotions were not an accurate reflection of the circumstances I was in – basically, if you heard me you would think I was living in a hut and sleeping on a floor (oh – some of you thought I would be? tut tut!!)  So what I’m trying to say is – pick who you call carefully! :-) (Thank you MS). I’m pleased to be able to say that honestly my initial panic/distress lasted about 2 hours and I had a really good sleep that night.  Everything is always better in the morning – especially if you arrive at your destination when it’s dark.  I woke up feeling glad that I am here – after all the planning and thinking about it, I was glad because the sun was shining so brightly and the sky was seriously blue and it’s really hard to feel down in those circumstances and I was glad because I knew God had brought me here safely, that I’m meant to be here and that situations like this are not supposed to be easy – what would be the point if they were? Oh and I’m exponentially glad that I only had to stay in the guest house for 2 nights!  Although – I would have been ok staying there for longer – you just get used to it.  Like I’m now getting used to my 2 bed home, wi-fi and tv.

Saturday night’s alright

My first saturday in Malawi!  So – what did I get up to……
During the day I took a stroll around town, went to the supermarket (see previous post) to buy some things for the house, came back home and thinking that the power had gone (it was just a switch that had tripped due to lightning). I read for a few hours outside which was quite nice. There is a large satellite TV in the main office building and this is also where I go to get my breakfast, lunch and dinner if I don’t feel like cooking.  I have been there every day so far.  I was hoping to catch some TV while eating lunch but totally forgot that it’s Saturday therefore as usual Premiership football takes over! Sheeesh!  So there were about 8 guys in the TV room watching Man U -West Ham, taking up all the seats and not one of them got up to offer me a seat while I ate my lunch…..some things just don’t change when it comes to men and football no matter where you are in the world!

Here is a pic of lunch – I’m being looked after so well :-)   I have to point out that they now let me serve my own portions as before there would be double the amount of food on the plate than what you see below – the idea of me losing any weight out here is not very likely anymore! Beans, rice, stew, potato salad and chicken - tasty! Come evening time I did go to the guest house (that I abandoned) party!  It was really nice actually – bbq, music, drinks and dancing.  One of the hosts gave a speech which was quite funny considering it was just a party for no specific reason – but apparently speeches are very popular in Neno and if you are asked to give one it’s offensive to say no. I was told by one of the ex-pat workers that this party is not a regular thing in Neno, and actually this particular one is a new concept as people paid to come in order that the hosts could buy food, drinks and provide music.  I have to admit when I was asked to pay the 2,000 kwacha I thought it was a joke (or taking advantage of the mazungu) and came empty handed!!! Shame!!  I was told that someone would come to collect it from me tomorrow.  Lesson learned – jokes about money are not jokes. So – back to the speech.  Due to the special nature of this party the host was commenting on how he wants this to continue and to get even bigger and better so that people will have good things to say about Neno.  My favourite line was: “Well, people say that Neno is a game reserve, and you are the game”. Wow.  I really couldn’t hold back the laughter – luckily neither could anyone else.  That’s all I have to say about the speech really! The music was a good mix of usual party tunes, naija tunes and East Africa tunes (with a Celine Dion track thrown in which got almost everyone dancing…she must have made an undercover East African come back or something!!)

Finding Neno

I think I should give you some detail on the Neno district where I am located at the moment.  A little education is always good.
Neno (pronounced Nai-no, so not really like Nemo (the fish) at all – sorry about that) is a district in the Southern region of Malawi.  It has a population of approx. 125,000 (I’m still trying to find most of them) and is set in a mountainous region. The centre of the Neno District is known as Neno-Boma and this is where I am based – from the pics you will think it doesn’t look like a “centre” but trust me – compared to the surrounding areas it really is bustling. A lot of this development has come from the work PIH alongside the Malawian Ministry of Health have done in the area since 2007.  The construction of the Neno District Hospital and other community health centres has really brought investment to the area.  Where there is a hospital – there will be people, and people who travel from far to get there.  When you hear about people walking for 4 hours to reach the hospital you really appreciate the importance and necessity of health care that we so easily take for granted. The main religion in the district is Christian (approx. 80%) and then approx. 12% Muslim.  This being my first Saturday in Neno-Boma I was quite perplexed as to where everyone had gone!  There are several reasons for the quiet weekends, these are:

1. A lot of people who work in Neno-Boma during the week actually live in surrounding villages so go home at the weekend or are from the nearest city – Blantyre.  I understand immediately (being a Londoner born and raised) when they tell me they need to get back to the city whenever they can! It’s a 2.5hr drive though so not that simple.
2. Quite a large proportion of Neno-Boma are 7th day Adventists so spend all day at church on Saturday.
3.  Neno is just quiet in general!  I have to adjust to this

Raindrops keep (not) falling on my head

Just a brief post……as I sit in my new house (more about that later) I am overwhelmed by the volume that is the sound of rain falling on the roof! It’s just coming to the end of rainy season in Malawi and thankfully I have managed to avoid being outside when the rain starts to fall.  When it rains – it rains like it means it!  And you know, I can forgive it – because no.1 the showers are usually brief, and no.2 the sunshine that follows dries up any trace within an hour.  (Mr UK rainfall – you could really learn a thing or two from Mr Malawian rainfall).

Journey to Neno

Hello readers!  Glad to report that I have arrived safely in Malawi and eventually to the district of Neno which is where PIH is based and where I will be based for the next 8 weeks. I would like to give a little appreciation to Kenya Airways – great flight, good IFE, lovely food, lovely staff!  One doesn’t always need to fly BA/Virgin – it took a lot of deep breaths (and a few flight quotes!!) for me to venture away from them and I’m glad I did. So…..after a brief stopover in Nairobi Airport, I arrived at Lilongwe International Airport yesterday morning and was so pleased to be met by 2 PIH staff and their driver (after a 12 hour flight and landing in Malawi I really can’t emphasize the word pleased enough!!). The main road in Malawi is the M1 (no, not that large!) and about 3/4 of the drive to Neno was on this main road and so a comfortable drive, was able to sleep for a bit.  The last 1/4 however was off-road and definitely not sleep friendly – quite fun though! (@mala,faz and Iyabo – think Jeep Safari in Turkey for the scenery but much more green and bumpy!)  We made two stops along the way – first for lunch at the Dedza Pottery shop and restaurant, and secondly to the latest community hospital built by PIH which is about an hour away from Neno. Arrived in Neno later that evening and after a brief tour went to the guest house where I will be initially staying.